Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Preparing The Perfect Turkey

Who doesn’t want a Thanksgiving or Christmas Turkey to be perfectly moist, juicy, and flavorful? A turkey is both a serious investment of time and money – especially if you get a fresh organic turkey like I do. So you really do want to make sure every thing is as good as it can be, especially if you're entertaining.

No matter how you choose to prepare your turkey (grilling, smoking, frying or traditional roasting), I have learned that brining guarantees your turkey will delight you and all of your guests and will have everyone begging for seconds! I have been using the brining method for over 15 years, and I have it down to a simple procedure that does not take a lot of time - just a little planning and forethought. Brining needs to begin 24 hours before the bird goes into the oven, grill, or fryer.

1. The Turkey – If the turkey is frozen, it must be completely thawed and cleaned out before placing it into the brining solution. Fresh turkeys are always the best because they have not been processed with chemicals or preservatives. Self-basting and kosher turkeys have already been processed in a salty broth, so the brine can make them too salty. However, I have brined a self-basting turkey or two in the past with good results.

2. The Brine - You will need a large pot and enough of the brining solution to completely cover the turkey. Since turkeys and dinner tables are not one size, I am offering a ratio instead of exact measurements. Every gallon of water will require 1 cup of salt. I always cook with kosher salt because it is almost pure salt, as opposed to table salt, which contains other “ingredients.”

You may ask, “Why Salt?” Salt is not only meant for seasoning. Brining increases the water content in every cell of the turkey through osmosis. As salt passes through the cell lining, the cell absorbs more water as well. The salt also brakes down protein, which tenderizes the meat. In fact, if you weigh your turkey before and after the brining process, the turkey will actually weigh more after brining.

Next add sugar – 1 cup per gallon. Either white, granulated or brown sugar will be fine. The sugar will balance the salty taste and make the turkey flavors more pronounced. Both the salt and the sugar must be completely dissolved before the net step. When the two have dissolved, add what ever flavor you like. Here are a few that I prefer:

2 lemons juiced with peel
2 sticks Cinnamon broken up
1 garlic head cut in half
1 onion cut up into chunks
1 tbsp black peppercorns
1 cup chopped fresh herbs - Rosemary, thyme, sage, etc.
Enough water to cover the turkey

Add all ingredients in the pot to the already dissolved salt and sugar, and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

3. Place Turkey in a large, plastic bag. Since you need room to spare, I prefer to use plastic kitchen bags. Open the kitchen bag, add the turkey, and pour in enough brine to cover it by an inch or two. Squeeze out all the air and tie the bag – do not tie off at the drawstring handles if the bag has these – tie the top of the plastic bag in a knot. The bird should be “floating” or suspended in brine. The bird and brine need to be stored in a cold place – if you prefer (and if it will fit), you can put the bird in your refrigerator. However, the fridge is no doubt already full with other items for your special meal. I put my turkey in its brine bag into an ice chest, and then I fill the chest with 15 to 20 lbs of ice. Put the chest in a cool, dark area. I have always left my turkey in the brine for 24 hours but if you have a small bird Like 10 to 12 lbs you might only brine it for 15 hours or so some say an hour per pound. 24 hour has always worked for me

4. Rinse the bird off after 24 hours with cold water and discard the brine. Pat the turkey dry. Lay the turkey in the roasting pan breast side up and tie the legs together. I put large pieces of chopped garlic, onions, carrots, celery and fresh herbs inside the breast and neck cavities. I also put chopped herbs, garlic, ground pepper and unsalted butter under the skin. DO NOT ADD SALT!

I take my turkey out of the ice 2 hours before cooking; allowing it to come up to room temperature, thus roast faster. The brining process will also result in a shorter cook time, by about 30 to 60 minutes.

5. Cook your Bird – I have tried several cooking settings and methods of preparation – choose which suits you best. It has been my experience that a brined bird cooks faster, so the best way to be certain your bird is cooked properly is to check the temperature with a thermometer. The FDA recommends cooking the turkey to an internal temperature of 170 degrees Fahrenheit; I don’t want to say they are incorrect, but as a chef I will say this…

I take the bird out of the oven (fryer or grill, etc) when it reaches an internal temperature of 155 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover it with foil and let it rest for 30 to 60 minutes. You will see that even after you take the bird out of the oven, the internal temperature will continue to clime to 165 or 170. This ensures the your turkey will be cooked properly, but not over cooked and dry.

It is very important to remember - NEVER carve you bird right out of the oven. The juices inside are under pressure. The juice will flow out leaving you with a very dry turkey.



6. A few more tips:
  • Cover the bottom of the pan with liquid so the drippings won’t burn while the turkey is roasting. Water, wine, or stock will work; don’t use the brine and DO NOT add salt! Try an inexpensive Gewürztraminer… Yum!
  • Brush the bird with a stick of melted, unsalted butter inside and out.
  • Use unsalted butter with everything in your meal.
  • If you stuff your turkey – do not use salt!
  • Cook your turkey on the lowest oven rack so the breast is in the middle of the oven. Start the oven at 450 degrees Fahrenheit, and turn it down to 325 degrees Fahrenheit 30-45 min after putting in the bird into the oven. Watch for the skin to turn brown; turn down the temperature when it does. I baste my bird every 30 minutes.
  • Regarding temperature and cook times - here is a cart from the Nation Turkey Foundation, but always plan for a brined turkey to finish 30 minutes to an hour early.
This year, I am purchasing a fresh, 20 pound, free-range turkey from Maple Lawn Farms, located in Fulton, MD. I highly recommend you try them. And please tell them I referred you! I also recommend Eastern Market. However, I am certain they purchase their turkeys from Maple Lawn Farms, so why not order direct from the farm?

Good luck cooking your meal, and don’t forget to buy good wine to drink with your turkey. It has given you its life and everything it has for your feast. Enjoy it to the fullest with some special wine!

Terry R. Brown, Wine Manager – Schneider’s of Capitol Hill

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