Wine of The Week - Brokenwood Semillon 2009, Hunter Valley, Australia

My wine of the week this week is a young Semillon from the fine wine region of Hunter valley in Australia, located just 80 miles north of Sydney.

Semillon was first cultivated in the south west of France where it is a key ingredient alongside Sauvignon Blanc in the sweet whites of Sauternes and also Bordeaux’s fine dry whites of Pessac Léognan. At one time it was the world’s most planted white grape variety but has since fallen out of fashion into obscurity. Semillon still plays a supporting role next to Sauvignon Blanc in the mertiage blends of northern California and the Margaret River in south west Australia. The only place you’re likely to find it standing on its own is in the Hunter Valley, where it has settled in very comfortably in the unusually hot and humid climate. Semillon's success in the region is now regarded as, and in Jancis Robinson words, “one of the most idiosyncratic and historic wine types exclusive to the New World”.

Brokenwood Wines have established themselves slowly over the last thirty years, initially the part time pursuit of three wine loving Sydney based solicitors,it soon took off and evolved into a full time venture. They are less well known outside of Australia than Tyrrell’s and their famous rendition of Semillon, but are arguably making wines of at least equal quality.

The 2009 that I drank last night was very different to other stand alone Semillons. Whereas most of the Hunter Valley Semillon’s, including Vat 1 and Brokenwood’s single vineyard bottles, are made with their unique ageing capacity, of well over 20 years, in mind. This bottle vintage is ready to drink now. Unlike the nutty and honeyed aged Semillons which are delightful in their own right, this had a much more youthful quality, with hints of lemon grass and blossom. The 2009 still has a tight and lean structure, a contributing factor that gives this grape its massive aging ability. However the low alcohol level, of 11 percent, and careful use of residual sugar, of 4.5 grams per liter, help keep the acidity in check, the result, a wine with balance and elegance.

For those, myself included, who are used to richer, weightier whites, like many Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc’s, it is easy to find this wine a little odd and peculiar at first but I definitely think it is worth a try. If this wine is to be fully enjoyed and appreciated it needs to go with food. A classic and harmonious pairing is with oysters, but its herbaceous edge would also work well with some Asian cuisine, perhaps an aromatic Thai dish with seafood.