Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Wine of The Week - Failla Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch 2009
This Pinot bowled us over at Schneider’s, and I must say after taking a bottle home and appreciating in my own time this was definitely worth all the enthusiasm. Made by Ehren Jordan of Turley Cellars it combines the best of Russian River’s excellent Pinot growing climate and Burgundian winemaking techniques. Having said that, the only producers in Burgundy to still ferment, as Ehren does, with all the grapes in whole clusters, is the illustrious Domaine de la Romanee-Conti and Domaine Leroy. The result is a wine with great finesse and beautiful tannic structure. The worry that including all the stems leads to a harsh, twiggy character can definitely be allayed. This, combined with a judicious use of oak, no more than 1/3 new, and bottling early, has really helped retain the gorgeous fresh and invigorating quality that Pinot is so well known for.
Almost like Grand Cru Burgundy with exceptional focus and intensity, the nose gives off aromas of vibrant fresh summer fruits and tea leaves. The palate reminded me of summers years ago spent picking wild berries at the roadside in the brambles. The fruit gradually falls away on the palate to notes of coffee and chocolate on the finish. Still very young the acidity was incredibly well integrated and hence drinking terrifically now, however its balance and poise will definitely make it worth stashing a few away for the next 6-8 years. Enjoy!
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