Eager to find out how Germany’s 2009 vintage fared, to start off with, I looked no further than Willie Haag’s Kabinett Riesling.
The Haag family owns a small estate, just less than 15 acres in the middle of the Mosel valley, situated in the Juffer and Juffer- Sonnenuhr vineyards just outside of Brauneberger. Their vines, all Riesling, thrive on the steep river banks that form the valley, deeply rooted in the weather beaten slate soil.
Marcus Haag, the families winemaker of 20 plus years, has done a masterful job with the 2009 harvest. By selecting grapes with the lowest must weight (sugar level) for his Kabinett he has produced a wine with incredible balance and vivacity. It is less mineral on the nose that many Mosel Rieslings, swaying more towards gorgeous aromas of slightly sour lemon and thyme. Fermenting to a low alcohol level of 8.5% has left a relatively high amount of residual sugar (50 grams per liter) for a Kabinett. This however is countered by a life affirming acidity, one of the hallmarks of a good German Riesling, adding another dimension, taking your taste buds on a mouthwatering and appetizing ride. I recommend buying a case or two, enjoying a few while young and letting the rest gracefully age for at least the next 5 or 6 years to integrate and develop.
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