Wine of The Week - Toluca Lane Pinot Noir 2009

Toluca Lane Pinot Noir 2009 ($31.99)

Pinot Noir is rarely inexpensive, even when you consider large producers who churn out a couple of hundred thousand cases a year, their price still hovers around $20-25 a bottle . The reason, to a large extent, is a result of the cost of production. Pinot is a hard grape to grow, thin-skinned and temperamental, it thrives in climates that offer warm days and cool nights and well-manicured vines that allow sunlight and ventilation without excessive exposure require lots of labor. This drives up the cost of production before the grapes have even made it to the winery. One of the most successful ways of producing Pinot Noir, as far as quality is concerned, is to grow in tiny parcels, like those of Burgundy. Except of course, making wine in tiny quantities often comes at a high price, or so you would think.

Toluca Lane, is a boutique winery we’ve been lucky enough to offer to our customers for a number of years. They have a small patch of land in Eola-Amity, Willamette Valley. After setting up in the late 90s in one of the most scenic parts of the country, Geoffrey and Lane Crowther bottled their first vintage in 2003. As a husband and wife team, they take great care of their 2.4 acres under vine, producing a modest 300 cases a year.

Pinot grows so well in this area because of two natural components. The shallow Nekia soils composed of volcanic basalt provide great drainage, helping regulate the vines hydration producing small concentrated grapes. Secondly a break in the coastal range, known as the Van Duzer corridor, allows ocean winds to cool the afternoons and evenings. This large diurnal range, the difference between the hottest and coolest part of the day, helps maintain the natural acidity which is an essential component to reaching balanced ripeness.

The Toluca lane retails for $32.99, which in my mind is exceptional value for a wine that has had so much care put in to it. The nose is a classic combination of fruit, earth and herbs. Lots of bright cherries and violets lift from the glass at first, but after a few minutes the nose displays more earthy characteristics of cedar and juniper. The palate is as balanced as the nose, with lots of ripe juicy fruit and a scrumptious mouth feel. The 2009 vintage is beautiful right now and will develop elegantly for the next few years.

Felix Milner