Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Wine of The Week - Poggio Amorelli Chianti Classico 2007

Poggio Amorelli Chianti Classico 2007

Key Facts:

Grape: Sangiovese

Region: Tuscany, Italy

Style: Medium body - vibrant red cherries and violets

Alcohol: 13.5%

Vintage: 2007

Price: $24.99 $17.99

From one of the most famous regions of Tuscany, producer Poggio Amorelli is located in one of the most picturesque places in the heartland of the Chianti, the village of Castellina in Chianti.

Their 2007 vintage is a great expression of the regions traditional style. Made from 100 percent sangiovese, it delivers intense aromas of red cherry, violets and just a hint of vanilla imparted from its maturation in oak. One of the hall marks of this style is the streak of vibrant acidity and savory fruit and subtle spice quality, making it a great wine to pair with a wide range of food, not just its typical companions, such as pasta and pizza. Its silky texture and medium body reminds me how well this would work alongside turkey and all the trimmings for Thanksgiving. At such a reasonable price, this is definitely going to be one of my picks on the table.

Felix Milner

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Wine of The Week - Chateau de Bel 2009

Chateau de Bel 2009 Bordeaux, France ($19.99 reduced to $15.99)

Anyone with an elementary knowledge of wine knows that purchasing anything from Bordeaux can be an expensive undertaking. Unfortunately for most people, that often means that Bordeaux is enjoyed only on special occasions. It’s for this reason that I was anxious to try Chateau de Bel, a modestly priced red which retails for only $15.99.

Beautiful dark-cherry red in the glass, the wine was rather closed upon opening but after a few minutes it’s fragrance opened, displaying notes of ripe plum and oak. Upon my first sip, I noticed tastes of dark blueberry, plum, and modest amounts of oak manifested by cedar and warm sweet spice notes. Tannins were bold but not overpowering and overall I thought Chateau de Bel is an amazingly well structured, balanced wine. Considering it is under $20, it makes for an excellent everyday drinking wine for any Bordeaux lover. This is a great wine for those cooler nights curled up on the sofa, and though it would work well with grilled meats and hearty pasta dishes, I enjoyed a couple of glasses with a mouthwatering wedge of sharp cheddar.


Kevin Ross

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Wine of The Week - Bodegas Olivares Panarroz 2009 Jumilla, Spain


Panarroz 2009 Jumilla, Spain $9.99

It might start looking like we are being subsidized by the Spanish wine industry, given the number of wines I’ve featured from Spain in the last couple of months. But the answer is really down to the fact that I keep finding a growing number of very pleasurable and relatively inexpensive delights. This week’s pick is a case in point. Panarroz is a delicious blend of Monastrell (Mourvedre) 60%, Garnacha (Grenache) 20% and Syrah 20%. I’m not quite sure where the name rice bread comes from, but the delightful fresh fruit on the nose and palate seem to make more sense especially given the astounding price, coming in at under $10. I recommend picking up a bottle to try and I would be surprised if you didn’t come back to grab a case, as I think it makes a great standby, week night wine. It’s direct and youthful character, partly due to the absence of any oak ageing, means it is very versatile. Great for quaffing on its own, it would also work well with pasta, chicken, and even some meaty fish.

Felix Milner

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Wine of The Week - El Agosto Mencia 2010, Bierzo, Spain

After taking stock of Gines Fernandez’s Mencia for the first time and with an interest in try something a little different, I decided to take home to try.

Due to its similarities, the Mencia variety was long thought to have been Spain’s cousin strain to Cabernet Franc, but recent DNA profiling has established the two are not linked. The grape is enjoying a gradual resurgence in popularity as young winemakers discover old vines and their potential to produce truly excellent wines, which is fuelling the development of a number of styles in this region. Some of the biggest examples see extended oak aging and need the best part of a decade to mature before reaching their prime. Others, like El Agosto, are made for near term drinking.

A dedicated and meticulous team hand harvest low yielding, old bush trained vines which are carefully cultivated on the hillsides of the sub region of Bierzo, in North West Spain. The grapes are fermented in small, plot specific tanks as they reach optimum maturity. Eight months in French oak has given backbone to this wine’s supple and delicious fruity quality. On the nose there is a display of soft plum and raspberry with a hint of mint. The palate takes on a burst of fruit, expressing a raspberry and blackberry compote with depth and somewhat grippy tannins.


Felix Milner

Monday, September 26, 2011

Wine of The Week - Domaine Dublere Bourgogne Blanc Les Millerands 2009

Domaine Dublere Bourgogne Blanc Les Millerands 2009 ($24.99)

This past Sunday, I sat down to taste a bottle of white Bourgogne Les Millerands from producer Domaine Dublere. The winery was started by Blair Pethel, a former political journalist from Washington, DC. After multiple trips to the region, he was so enchanted by Burgundy that he decided to quit his job, move to France, and begin producing wine. I was especially looking forward to trying this particular Chardonnay, hoping that a fellow Washingtonian could effectively capture the essence of Burgundy.

After pouring a glass, I first examined the color of the wine. It was about the color of straw, not too light and not too dark with a slight golden hue. Upon smelling my glass, I immediately noticed that this is not an overpoweringly fragrant wine, but it does have very pleasant hints of both oak and vanilla.

On taking my first sip, I observed that the wine was medium bodied, which I initially interpreted as a light cream taste. As with the aroma, the wine’s flavors are delicately present but not overpowering. The wine exhibited a nice acidity in the beginning which gave way to a restrained yet definitive mineral and oak taste. After the mineral and oak subsided on my palate, I was left with a clean, crisp finish which lasted well over thirty seconds. As the wine warmed up a bit in my glass, a faint nutty taste also materialized. It was enjoyable to sit and sip this wine on a Sunday afternoon while imagining the vineyard at this time of year.

Overall, I was very pleased Domaine Dublere’s entry level Chardonnay. offering good quality at such a reasonable price, given Burgundy’s high land and labor costs. The balance of the various flavors in the wine was excellent and I would recommend it to anyone who is looking to venture into white Burgundy. I have no doubt that I will be trying more of Blair Pethel’s wines in the near future.

Kevin Ross

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Wine of The Week - Máté Mantus Merlot 2007

Máté Mantus Merlot 2007, Tuscany Italy ($29.99)

Not content with his success as a writer, photographer, and ship builder (which he of course wrote about very successfully), around ten years ago Ferenc Máté turned his hand to making wine.

After sailing around the Pacific with his wife Candace in the boat they built, the couple finally chose to settle down in Tuscany, Italy. To begin with Ferenc renovated a beautiful 13th Century Friary nestled in the hill of Montalcino and then set about building a winery and growing vines on the surrounding land.

With the help of Fabrizio Moltard, agronomist to Angelo Gaja, Ferenc chose grape varieties that suited each field of the small, 15-acre estate. Mate Winery makes a variety of remarkable wines, with their Brunello at the apex, reaching sensual heights. They also make a few “international” varietals, including a Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot.

I took home a bottle of the Merlot last week and was thoroughly impressed. If there is anyone out there who turns their nose up at Merlot, this is a wine to persuade them otherwise. The soft plum and sumptuous dark fruit on the nose are more akin to a Pomerol than any other Merlot I have tried.

Like Pomerol, Ferenc grows his Merlot in plots where the soil has a high proportion of clay. The combined facts that Merlot is happy to have wet feet and needs long warm days and cool evenings to ripen, explains why it works so well here. Montalcino enjoys a warmer, more arid climate than Chianti zones to the north, receiving several inches less rainfall every year. With less rainfall the roots stays well irrigated by the highly absorbent clay soil throughout the ripening period.

This wine would work well with any number of rich tasty dishes. I tasted it alongside a Burger from Five Guys, and although it probably isn’t a food match normally associated with fine wine, the result was sensational.


Felix Milner

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Wine of The Week - Toluca Lane Pinot Noir 2009

Toluca Lane Pinot Noir 2009 ($31.99)

Pinot Noir is rarely inexpensive, even when you consider large producers who churn out a couple of hundred thousand cases a year, their price still hovers around $20-25 a bottle . The reason, to a large extent, is a result of the cost of production. Pinot is a hard grape to grow, thin-skinned and temperamental, it thrives in climates that offer warm days and cool nights and well-manicured vines that allow sunlight and ventilation without excessive exposure require lots of labor. This drives up the cost of production before the grapes have even made it to the winery. One of the most successful ways of producing Pinot Noir, as far as quality is concerned, is to grow in tiny parcels, like those of Burgundy. Except of course, making wine in tiny quantities often comes at a high price, or so you would think.

Toluca Lane, is a boutique winery we’ve been lucky enough to offer to our customers for a number of years. They have a small patch of land in Eola-Amity, Willamette Valley. After setting up in the late 90s in one of the most scenic parts of the country, Geoffrey and Lane Crowther bottled their first vintage in 2003. As a husband and wife team, they take great care of their 2.4 acres under vine, producing a modest 300 cases a year.

Pinot grows so well in this area because of two natural components. The shallow Nekia soils composed of volcanic basalt provide great drainage, helping regulate the vines hydration producing small concentrated grapes. Secondly a break in the coastal range, known as the Van Duzer corridor, allows ocean winds to cool the afternoons and evenings. This large diurnal range, the difference between the hottest and coolest part of the day, helps maintain the natural acidity which is an essential component to reaching balanced ripeness.

The Toluca lane retails for $32.99, which in my mind is exceptional value for a wine that has had so much care put in to it. The nose is a classic combination of fruit, earth and herbs. Lots of bright cherries and violets lift from the glass at first, but after a few minutes the nose displays more earthy characteristics of cedar and juniper. The palate is as balanced as the nose, with lots of ripe juicy fruit and a scrumptious mouth feel. The 2009 vintage is beautiful right now and will develop elegantly for the next few years.

Felix Milner