Eager to find out how Germany’s 2009 vintage fared, to start off with, I looked no further than Willie Haag’s Kabinett Riesling.
The Haag family owns a small estate, just less than 15 acres in the middle of the Mosel valley, situated in the Juffer and Juffer- Sonnenuhr vineyards just outside of Brauneberger. Their vines, all Riesling, thrive on the steep river banks that form the valley, deeply rooted in the weather beaten slate soil.
Marcus Haag, the families winemaker of 20 plus years, has done a masterful job with the 2009 harvest. By selecting grapes with the lowest must weight (sugar level) for his Kabinett he has produced a wine with incredible balance and vivacity. It is less mineral on the nose that many Mosel Rieslings, swaying more towards gorgeous aromas of slightly sour lemon and thyme. Fermenting to a low alcohol level of 8.5% has left a relatively high amount of residual sugar (50 grams per liter) for a Kabinett. This however is countered by a life affirming acidity, one of the hallmarks of a good German Riesling, adding another dimension, taking your taste buds on a mouthwatering and appetizing ride. I recommend buying a case or two, enjoying a few while young and letting the rest gracefully age for at least the next 5 or 6 years to integrate and develop.
We've just received a few cases of Schalfly's American IPA. Aware of Schlafly's other successful ventures using hops, namely their English IPA, we were all very keen to try this. It is a sublime composition of Amarillo, Centennial and Simcoe hops. Truly exhilarating with fresh citrus and pine aromas, it is bigger and bolder than its English styled cousin. The flavor holds for quite a while on the palate and leads to a magnificent clean, crisp, tart finish. Simply gorgeous.
The name comes from the abandoned vineyards found by Chester Osborne, d’Arenberg’s chief winemaker, while searching for more grapes. He found the hardy vines growing very well amongst the wild bracken and long grasses. The plants had survived without irrigation for nearly two decades after a government vine pulling scheme in the 1980s left many vineyards scrubbed up or left fallow in an attempt to limit production. The result are vines with exceptionally low yields producing very small concentrated grapes with intense flavor and color.
Although not registered organic, d’Arenberg’s employs minimal impact practices. Legumes are planted alongside vines in alternate rows to help draw nitrogen into the ground naturally and to help prevent the growth of weeds. Sprays are occasionally used, but only when it is necessary to protect against major crop losses. Their consumption of water is also kept to a minimum with the Grenache in the once derelict vineyards continuing to be dry grown.
With a few years bottle ageing the 2004 still has lots vibrant ripe red and black fruit. The fruity character is really at the heart of this wine, with hints of citrus, orange peel and spice coming through on the finish. The mouth feel is gorgeous, a juicy texture backed by very subtle fine tannins and a refreshing acidity that has kept so much life in this wine. It was at home beside the barbeque, a juicy garlic and herb marinated skirt steak was a mouthwatering accompaniment. Overall I thought it was a highly pleasurable and approachable wine, perfect for drinking with friends.
Felix Milner
Australia is of course best known for making Shiraz, or Syrah as it is known in its traditional home in the Rhone Valley in France. The Ozzies have now also borrowed a few white grapes from the Rhone too. Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, which typically go into making white Chateauneuf du Pape, are proving very successfully on the other side of the world as well.
Prior to starting his own label in 2003, John Duval spent most of his career with Penfolds, as their Chief wine-maker since 1986. As well as producing their everyday wines, he was responsible for keeping Grange on its pedestal as one of the most famous wines of the new world.
The Plexus MRV is a terrific example of restrained wine making. 50 percent of the wine, including Marsanne and Viognier but not Roussane, finishes its fermentation and ages for 7 months in French Oak (7% new oak). This measured use allows the juice to develop incredible depth of flavour and structure not normally attributed to white wine. It has vibrant aromas of stone fruit and citrus lifting from the glass. The Marsanne and Roussane contribute flavours of pear and citrus while the Viognier adds an exotic edge of mandarins and spice, reminiscent of ginger, allspice and fennel.
We drank this wine with a spring vegetable risotto, a pairing that turned out very well. Each component helped express the other, and it was one of those rare occasions where the combination results in an experience greater than the total of its parts.
Felix Milner
Aglieta Brunello di Montancino 2006 Retail: $79.99 Sale: $59.99
Mate Brunello di Montancino 2004 Retail: $59.99 Sale: $49.99
Ornellaia le Serre Nuove 2008 Retail $69.99 Sale: $59.99
Mate Brunello di Montancino 2005 Retail: $59.99 Sale: $49.99
