Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Congratulations d'Arenburg!

One of our favorite winemakers, d'Arenberg, has scored three major successes recently! First, our friend and winemaker Chester Osborn has been nominated as Gourmet Traveler's 2008 Winemaker of the year. Second, Chester's father D'Arry's restaurant - Verandah - wins at the SA Restaurant and Catering Awards! If that weren't enough, James Holidays' 2009 Wine Companion rates d'Arenburg Winery at 5 Stars! Congratulations to Chester, D'Arry and the rest of the gang at d'Arenberg!

If you have not had the pleasure of trying the wines of d'Arenberg, we carry the lot. Stop in at Schneider's or visit our web site to peruse our selection of d'Arenberg wines.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Terry's Herb and Cracked Pepper Crusted Tenderloin

Over the past several years, it has become a tradition for the Schneider’s holiday party for Terry to prepare his Herb and Cracked Pepper Crusted Tenderloin. Trust us when we say, there are never any left overs! The staff is all over this one!

To begin:
Use fresh herbs - they result in much better flavor than dried herbs you by at the store.
Kosher salt instead of granulated salt – pure salt without additives for a better flavor as well as texture

1 whole tenderloin (Clean and train removed – if you are not sure you can do this on your own, please consult with your butcher as he/she will be happy to help – or feel free to come talk with me)
3 cups of fresh herbs with stems removed (rosemary, thyme, sage, basil, oregano)
1 whole head of garlic peeled (entire garlic bulb)
¾ cup whole peppercorns (black or mixture)
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Balsamic Vinegar
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons cognac

Take all ingredients (except for the tenderloin) and put them into a food processor or Cuisinart and pulse chop until very coarsely ground, being careful not to over chop the peppercorns. The blend should be chunky, not fine. This will result in a green paste. Set aside.

Pat dry the tenderloin, and place on plastic wrap large enough to wrap entire tenderloin. Take the green paste and coat the tenderloin on all sides. Tightly wrap with paste coated tenderloin in the plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours.

When ready to prepare, take tenderloin out of fridge 1 to 2 hours ahead of time so it has time to come to room temp. Preheat oven to 500º Fahrenheit. Carefully place tenderloin in roasting pan with a rack that is large enough to accommodate the full length, so as to not remove any of the green past. Roasting pan needs to include a rack that you will place the tenderloin on so it will cook evenly on all sides. Upon placing tenderloin into the oven, immediately turn oven down to 375°. Takes about 45 to 60 minutes to cook. Use thermometer to check temp. Take a larger piece out earlier as it will continue to cook after it is removed from the oven.

Rare – 120
MR – 130
Med – 140

When desired temp is reached, remove tenderloin from oven and remove from roasting pan. Wrap tenderloin in aluminum foil. Allow to rest for 20 to 30 minutes in a warm place (near or on the oven, but not back in the oven). This will allow the juice to be retained when do cut the tenderloin – when removing from oven, juices are under pressure. Resting allows the pressure to reduce. Also, muscle fibers when allowed to cool will relax. The result will be a tenderer, juicer piece of meat. Slice thinly against the grain. Serve with a good mustard of your preference or horse radish sauce.

Bon appetite!
Terry Brown, Wine Manager, Schneider's of Capitol Hill

Chef Terry R. Brown

All of his customers know they can rely on Terry for the perfect wine selections, as well as the perfect food pairing. Cooking is in his blood. Terry reminisces, “I learned how to cook from both of my grandmothers because it was such an important part of our family gatherings.” His entire family took great pride in creating food for events from weekly gatherings to special occasions and holidays.

Little did he realize the impact his family tradition would have on his life. While attending SMU (Terry was enrolled in a masters program for music history and harpsichord performance), he decided to change paths and follow a calling that was near and dear to his heart – he decided to become a chef. Admittedly, he was attracted to the glamour of being a chef; well-known chefs in Dallas had achieved celebrity status and were paid well for their craft. However, becoming a professional chef was a way to carry on his family’s traditions in a way he had never imagined.

Terry’s training began in 1990 when he enrolled in a three-year chef-training program and apprenticeship with El Centro College in Downtown Dallas. El Centro’s culinary school is recognized as one of the best in the Southern United States. The culinary program at El Centro is intense – students take classes while working in restaurants to fulfill the apprenticeship portion of the curriculum. Terry began an apprenticeship with a hotel in Dallas while working part-time at Baby Routh (a spin-off of Steven Pyle’s Routh Street Café). However, feeling his creative talents being stifled, he left the country club apprenticeship after being offered a full-time apprenticeship with Baby Routh. Under the direction of Chef Kevin Rathburn, Terry blossomed as a culinary artist. Working with Chef Rathburn, Terry worked on the line and soon became the Chef de Tourney. He says, “My passion for creating food grew in the company and expertise of Chef Rathburn. I was given a once in a lifetime opportunity to work with and experiment with exotic ingredients from all over the world.” These ranged from pheasant, escargot, caviar, exotic mushrooms, Fuji apples, squid ink and more.

After almost three years at Baby Routh and completion of courses at El Centro, Terry decided it was time for a change. He packed up his life in Dallas and moved to Washington, D.C. in 1993. It was at this point he began working with Bob Kinkead and Ris Lacoste at Kinkead’s. He began working the line at Kinkead’s and eventually took over as the fish butcher. Terry learned a great deal from both Kinkead and Lacoste, and decided to depart in 1994 to begin his own venture at Belmont Kitchen in Adams Morgan.

Terry spent three years at Belmont Kitchen as a partner and as executive chef. He took great pride in the fact that he employed many of the same concepts he learned at Baby Routh – seasonal menus, numerous daily specials, and the best possible ingredients from around the world to make interesting and exotic cuisine. A few of the more notable items Terry mentioned were:

• Red tortilla crusted goat cheese rellenos with yellow tomato cream
• Beef Ribs with Mango BBQ Sauce
• Roasted Rabbit with Spinach Gnochi and lemon sage cream
• Lamb Shank braised in Negro Modelo and ancho chilis
• Homemade ice cream and sorbets everyday

Belmont Kitchen provided Terry with the ideal venue for creating food with passion that guests truly loved. However, after three years, Terry decided to make another career change. He chose to combine his love of creating amazing food with wine. He had learned enough about wine to know that he wanted to make a career out of it while he was a chef. After departing from Belmont and exploring some other ventures, Terry made his way to Schneider’s in 2000 and became a part-time wine sales associate.

Combing his knowledge and experience with food as well as his expertise with ingredients made the transition to wine sales an easy one. His heightened and sensitive palate had been well developed from years in the restaurant business, providing him a unique and practical ability to pair food and wine. Terry says he believes that, “Food is incomplete until it has the perfect wine pairing,” as he is constantly seeking new flavors to combine for the ultimate culinary nirvana.

Although largely self-taught, since joining Schneider’s, Terry has continued his education in wine. In 2002, Terry completed six months of intense courses to become certified by the Sommelier Society of America. He has also traveled to Australia (2005) and Spain (2008) for the sole purpose of sampling regional wines in both countries.

Terry’s love of food and wine go way beyond and above the casual cook and wine aficionado. In his own home, he designed and built his own kitchen with the help of his partner. His goal was to create a space in his own home where he could remain a chef for friends and family. That goal has been achieved, and the culinary delights coming from his home, as well as the happy faces and satisfied appetites of friends and family alike are testaments to Terry’s mission to create unforgettable and unique food and wine pairings. Terry goes on to say, “One of the greatest pleasures is making a meal special enough to complement the special accomplishments moments in life.” He enjoys “helping people create memories.” He says that while he may not be saving lives or building things, “food and wine is one of the pleasures in life that people work for, and I am proud to help them achieve the ultimate culinary experience.” His keys to great cooking are “the best ingredients prepared properly and simply. Everyone has to eat and drink, but it is fortunate to be able to truly dine.”