Wine of The Week - Bodegas Valdeospino Deliciosa Manzanilla & Solera 1842 Oloroso

Although Sauvignon Blancs and the like are often the drink of choice for refreshment over the Summer, I would like to take some time to extol the virtues of Sherry, a great, and in my opinion, vastly undervalued, drink. Like other types of fortified wines such as Port and Madiera it takes its name from its place of origin. Sherry is the anglicized name of the city of Jerez where the region’s best Bodegas, or producers, are based. Sherry is a truly unique product with a number of styles, made in a range of methods different to any other wine. One of the major differences is made during the fermentation process. Whereas Port is fortified mid way through fermentation, killing the yeast and leaving a high amount of residual sugar, Sherry is fermented dry before being fortified with grape brandy.

Sherry is mostly made from one grape variety, the thin skinned Palomino. Dry table wine has occasionally been made with it but for good reasons it is pretty much only used in the production of sherry, which it excels at. The second grape Pedro Ximenez (PX) is grown further inland at higher elevation in the hills of Montilla-Moriles. It is used to produce the sweetest richest style of Sherry but is also added to aged Finos (Amontillados) and Olorossos to make sweeter versions known as dulce or cream. PX’s contribution can lend a great balancing complexity in a blend but is quite often substituted for less exepensive Arrope, which is concentrated, unfermented grape juice.

Fino, the lightest style, is aged in oak casks, filled around five-sixths full leaving space to allow a yeast called Flor to develop over the surface providing a barrier to oxygen. The bodegas keep their style and flavor consistent by employing a method of fractional blending known as the Solera, where every new vintage gets gradually siphoned off to the previous years, helping keep the all important Flor alive.

Oloroso on the other hand is made in an oxidative style, fortified to a level where the Flor cannot sustain life, it is aged outside of the cool bodegas in Andalucía’s baking sun.

Valdespino is a Bodega steeped in history and still producing some of the region’s finest fortified wines today. They hold the claim as the oldest Sherry producer, dating back to the 13^th Century when Don Alfonso Valdespino, one of the King’s knights, was rewarded with 30 hectares of land helping re-conquer the town from the Moores. Records of business date back as far as 1430, however, it did not become a registered company until 1875. Eight years later it became a purveyor of Sherry to the Royal House of Spain.

Deliciosa Manzanilla

Manzanillas are made in exactly the same way as Finos, but they must be aged in the coastal town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. The cooler, more temperate maritime climate allows the growth of Flor to remain constant all year round, whereas in Jerez the hot summers and cooler winters inhibit the growth of Flor. The effect of this is that Manzanillas develop a more tangy, salty and mineral quality, that some attribute to its proximity to the sea. Traditionally served in a small narrow glass, or copita, alongside Tapas, the Deliciosa makes the perfect aperitif served well chilled and poured into small wine glasses. I shared this bottle with friends to go with an afternoon snack of olives, chips and a mouthwatering wedge of Manchego, perfect for a warm summer afternoon or evening. The half bottle sizes are ideal, as Finos and Manzanillas don’t last long once opened and need to be consumed within a day or so. However, among company we polished this bottle off rather too easily, and you may find it best to have more than one on hand.

The Solera 1842 Olorosso is a terrific example of its type. Aged at their Bodegas in Jerez, the youngest component of the Solera just reaches its 25^th Birthday upon bottling. Holding the glass up it has a luxurious walnut and mahogany color. Rich and intense on the nose, it reminds me of dark, thick, tangy marmalade with a slight hint of smoke. Initially quite sweet on the palate, it carries on with great length and finishes almost dry thanks to a very balanced level of acidity. For a wine of this age and level of complexity it is one of our best bargains, at $36.99 for a half bottle, it is priced well below the world’s finest table wines of the same quality.

We tasted this with a selection of strong cheeses but it would also go tremendously well with game and other rich meats, perhaps duck, rabbit or veal.

Felix Milner

Chef Terry Brown’s Oysters on Half Shell with Deliciosa Manzanilla Sherry

Most people don’t think of Sherry and food together but in fact sherry pairs very well with food because of its lively crisp acidity and complexity.

This is a simple preparation but delicious and a lot of fun

Ingredients

1 box Rock salt

1 dozen Fresh oyster on the ½ shell

Sauce

1 tablespoon Butter

2 Shallots finely chopped

1 tablespoon Chopped thyme

1 teaspoon Grated lemon zest (no white pith, only yellow rind)

2 Lemons juiced

¼ cup Good sherry vinegar

Topping

1 cup Panko Japanese bread crumbs

½ cup Grated Manchego cheese

½ cup Chopped parsley for garnish

Instructions

1. Set the oven at 450 F. Place the rock salt on a sheet pan 1” deep and preheat in the oven until hot, about 20 minutes.

2. In a bowl mix the Manchego, Panko bread crumbs and half the parsley together.

3. Melt the butter in a sauté pan on high heat and let the butter brown. As the butter begins to color throw in the chopped shallots. Sauté for a couple of minutes or until clear then add the lemon zest and chopped thyme. Allow to cook off the heat for a few minutes. When cool add the Lemon juice and the vinager.

4. Ok, now gird your loins, you have to work fast!

Pull the sheet pan of hot rock salt out of the oven. Turn the broiler on. Place the oysters on the half shell on top of the hot rock salt, don’t spill the oyster juice! Spoon 1 Tablespoon or so of the vinegar onto each oyster, then top with the panko mix, and a grating of fresh black pepper. Slide the rack under the broiler and Don’t Take Your Eyes Off the Oysters. Remove when the breadcrumbs turn golden.

For Presentation take some of the Rock Salt and place on serving plates, each with 3 oysters. Sprinkle with Parsley. Serve with small glasses of the Deliciosa Manzanilla.

Bon Appetit!

Robert Sinskey's Whites now in stock

The stunning and expressive 2010 Pinot Blanc & 2009 Pinot Gris are now in stock.

Wine of The Week - Domaine du Pas de l'Escalette, Les Clapas 2007

Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Les Clapas, Coteaux du Languedoc 2007

This wine is made by Julien Zernott of Domaine Henri Pellé in Menetou-Salon in the Loire and Delphine Rousseau. Composed of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cinsault this wine expresses its sense of place beautifully. Despite the typically long hot Summer's the fruit has retained lots of natural acidity, helped in part by the vineyards relatively high elevation of 1150 ft at the foot of the Larzac plateau in the Languedoc region.

Aromas elegantly lift from the glass, honestly conveying the dry, stony topsoil and the herbaceous, woody scrubland that surrounds the vineyards. Red berries and plums follow on in the mouth, concentrated and fresh but in very intelligently restrained, focused style. We enjoyed it rather too easily on its own, finishing one glass you couldn't help but pour out another. It would pair perfectly with light cheeses and delicate dishes.

Out of stock at time of writing, however we are expecting delivery of a re-order.

Felix Milner