Drappier Grande Sendrée 2002

This is a prestige cuvée from a little known family run Champagne house located in the sleepy village of Urville in the Côte Des Bar, Champagne’s most southerly region, 75 to 90 miles South East of Epernay. The climate changes significantly as you make this short step south, semi continental, it has warmer Summer and Fall days while the evenings cool off retaining the grapes natural acidity. Drappier owns a 100 acres vineyard of Pinot Noir that sits on the same strata of mineral laden Kimmeridgian soil that the vines of Chablis and Sancerre grow so well on further south in Burgundy and the Loire.

The name Sendrée has an interesting history. A ferocious fire hit the Urville in the 1850s reducing the trees and shrubs to cinders. Afterwards the Drappiers planted a vineyard on the raised sloped above the village that became known as Les Cendrées (The Cinders). The family did not start bottling vintages from the Grande Sendrée until 1974 by which time an error had been made in the registration of the title of the vineyard replacing the “c” for and “s”.

The Grande Sendrée 2002 is made up of 55 percent Pinot Noir from their own vineyard and 45 percent Chardonnay bought under a long standing contract from a top grower based in Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, which as it happens is where the best Chardonnay within Champagne is cultivated.

It has all the components one would expect from a prestige cuvée. In the glass it is glistening gold with a tinge of copper. The nose displays freshly baked brioche and croissant while balanced by aromas of stewed apple and quince. The fruit follows through in the mouth in a full and rich fashion, comparable to a fat Meursault in terms of texture. It is instantly lifted by the delicate mouse from the tiny beaded bubbles of C0₂. The finish pulls away slowly, with a very elegant stoney and mineral dimension. Priced at $79.99, for this level of quality, when compared to its counterparts from the larger producing Champagne houses, it is very good value for money.