d’Arenberg is one of McLaren Vale’s most renowned producers. Famous for their cult Shiraz, Dead Arm, they also specialize in making wine from other hot climate grapes, notably Grenache. Although the grape is normally blended with Shiraz and Mourvedre it is less frequently, as in this wonderful example, bottled as a single varietal.
The name comes from the abandoned vineyards found by Chester Osborne, d’Arenberg’s chief winemaker, while searching for more grapes. He found the hardy vines growing very well amongst the wild bracken and long grasses. The plants had survived without irrigation for nearly two decades after a government vine pulling scheme in the 1980s left many vineyards scrubbed up or left fallow in an attempt to limit production. The result are vines with exceptionally low yields producing very small concentrated grapes with intense flavor and color.
Although not registered organic, d’Arenberg’s employs minimal impact practices. Legumes are planted alongside vines in alternate rows to help draw nitrogen into the ground naturally and to help prevent the growth of weeds. Sprays are occasionally used, but only when it is necessary to protect against major crop losses. Their consumption of water is also kept to a minimum with the Grenache in the once derelict vineyards continuing to be dry grown.
With a few years bottle ageing the 2004 still has lots vibrant ripe red and black fruit. The fruity character is really at the heart of this wine, with hints of citrus, orange peel and spice coming through on the finish. The mouth feel is gorgeous, a juicy texture backed by very subtle fine tannins and a refreshing acidity that has kept so much life in this wine. It was at home beside the barbeque, a juicy garlic and herb marinated skirt steak was a mouthwatering accompaniment. Overall I thought it was a highly pleasurable and approachable wine, perfect for drinking with friends.
Felix Milner
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